In his book “The New Vignerons,” the Spanish wine critic Luis Gutiérrez writes that it was Santana who started the wine revolution in the Canary Islands, “[waking] it up from its dormant state.” He also credits Envínate in laying the foundation for a new Spanish wine scene, one that champions old vines and authentic identity. But all of this comes with a shift in mentality, Santana explains. It’s not just about soils and sites, it’s also about sustaining a community. “We need to support the people who work with us, to ensure that they have decent and dignified work,” he says. .