Have you ever wondered what it would be like to go back in time, and have a beer with an admired figure from the past? An old friend? A long gone relative? Or even someone who is still here with us, but you just can’t quite figure out how to ring up… Adele, or The Boss, or maybe Vinnie Cilurzo, Sam Calagione, or Kim Jordan?
Though a completely unrealistic wish, it sure would be great to have a craft beer or two with my Dad. In the 19 years since his passing, craft beer has changed so much, and I’m certain he would have appreciated learning more about beer and experimenting a bit with me! I think if he was around to walk the aisles of the store, he’d be there for hours, just taking in all the labels, artwork, font types, beer names, bottle shapes, and the move to cans; if anything, my Dad was insatiably curious about everything.
Knowing that my Dad’s tastes ranged from Schlitz, Piels, and Schaffer, I’m not sure the New England IPA style would have been his jam. But, I’d be willing to bet that he would have been perfectly content to visit Notch’s taproom in Salem, and have a couple of The Standard’s with me. Having grown up in nearby Marblehead, he sure would have gotten a kick out of being able to visit a craft brewery right next door.
Closer to what was home in northern New York, I know we would have had a blast at Zero Gravity, drinking Green State Lager. And though he never did get a chance to travel to Europe, I am beyond certain he would have loved Germany, and all the incredible Helles Lagers and Pilsners one can find there.
Knowing his love of whisky, he may have had a pretty good time getting to know Allagash’s Curieux. But it’s hard to say whether he would have been able to move through all the beer styles, and been able to settle on something other than a lager. But he sure would have used it as a learning opportunity, and a means to ask a thousand questions!
If we had ever gone on a brewery tour together, I can almost hear him now, saying to whoever would listen,“What is that for? What does that do? How long does it take? How hot? How cold? How many gallons? What is the yield? How? Why? What? When? Who?”. Dad was as curious as a five year old, and it was one of the most endearing things about him. A consummate tinkerer, he likely would have been an excellent homebrewer!
So, since my thoughts above, are merely melancholy musings, I’d highly recommend that if you can grab a beer with your Pops, go do it, as soon as you can! Or take your Mom; mine likes Lindeman’s Framboise! Life is short; drink amazing beer with people you love, while you still can. Cheers!
Despite some setbacks in 2020 due to COVID-19, the craft beer industry continues to grow. However, this growth is not only being fueled by consumer behavior alone- investment in the industry by retail investors has also grown. Craft beer is a $22.2 billion industry comprised of 8,764 unique competitors. In 2020 alone, 716 craft breweries opened their doors to the public… and this was a slow year. While some naysayers claim that the industry is becoming oversaturated, small brands continue to bring new, interesting products and community-driven tap rooms to neighborhoods around the country with solid success. And thanks to new funding models, supporters can not only fuel the industry by buying beer, but by investing in new concepts.
Opening investment to craft beer supporters
Prior to 2016, only accredited investors could invest in privately held companies. This is why non-accredited investors (everyday people) can invest in publicly traded companies, through vehicles like retirement accounts or apps like Robinhood, but only super-rich VCs and angel investors have access to invest in startups. The JOBS Act, Title III, changed these rules, so that through regulated portals, both accredited and non-accredited investors can invest in privately held companies, including small businesses and breweries. This vastly expands the ability for everyday people to invest in businesses they care about and frequent.
Mainvest, an investment platform specializing in the craft beer industry, has seen massive growth in both the number of breweries raising capital using their revenue sharing model and in the number of everyday investors joining the industry. More than $7 million was raised by community investors in 2020 alone for craft brewery projects around the country. Both experienced and first-time investors have chosen Mainvest to invest in craft breweries because it opens up investment opportunities to everyone. With targeted returns of 1.5x-2x, on average, it can be a method of diversifying into an alternative asset class that investors can actually care about and experience firsthand. It also gives craft beer supporters the chance to get to know their local brewers better by engaging in their capital raise and accessing perks like membership to beer clubs.
Why breweries raise capital through revenue sharing notes
More breweries than ever before are turning to crowdfunding- rather than institutional capital alone- to fund their craft beer ventures. Investment crowdfunding can take a variety of forms. Some breweries use equity crowdfunding, in which they share a percentage of the business in exchange for investment capital from investors. Other breweries may crowdfund loans or use other forms of crowdsourced debt.
Through Mainvest, both established and aspiring brewers can secure a round of funding from community supporters and fans. Using Revenue Sharing Notes, breweries can raise funds from both accredited and non-accredited investors and repay with a percentage of revenue rather than a set interest rate. One main reason breweries choose Mainvest over institutional financing is the community engagement aspect of fundraising. Through Mainvest, breweries can accept investment from anyone in their community, regardless of wealth, status or experience. By providing financial incentives, they improve brand loyalty and reward regulars for their support.
Capital raised on Mainvest tends to be founder-friendly, and repayment is tied to quarterly revenue, not a set interest rate, so issuers repay investors as they grow. A major upside is that issuers decide on the terms of their revenue sharing note. Because it’s a debt instrument, there’s no dilution of ownership. They don’t require personal guarantees, so brewers don’t have to put their own finances on the line to grow the business.
Brockton Beer Co: communities coming together to create new breweries
In Brockton, MA, a group of friends began brewing in collaboration with other breweries. They struggled to access capital from institutional lenders because banks believed that the Brockton community wasn’t the right demographic for a craft brewery. Their Mainvest raise proved otherwise: Brockton Beer Company raised over $100,000 from everyday supporters in and around Brockton who believed in bringing their vision to life. Investments ranged from $100 to $10,000+ and allowed the team to access additional financing to start building out a craft brewery in downtown Brockton. The craft beer industry is expanding, and as more and more consumers demand the craft beer taproom model, options for investment are expanding as well.
The first time we had Highland Clawhammer Oktoberfest was back in 2010. Even then, it skyrocketed to what we considered one of the best festbiers in brewed in America.
11 years later, neither this beer, or our opinion have changed. (Besides the label.)
Summer is flying by, as it always seems after Independence Day. You’re not out of July before oktoberfests start popping up – mainly because of the lead time to produce a lager like this.
Maybe after all years, it’s worth saying. This beer is as timeless as it is delicious. It’s toasty, light colored, rich, full-bodied, crisp and clean. German inspired, but American brewed. Yet another reason to love fall.
For the 11th time we announce this beer hitting shelves again. If you haven’t, perhaps it’s time to grab a stein and go for it.
American Craft Beers Find Their Way into Japanese and Korean Restaurants
For so long American craft beers have been left out of Japanese and Korean restaurants—because they seemed to clash with, or overshadow the food’s character (too hoppy, too sour, too spicy). But by sticking to dependable pairing ideologies—big flavored or high alcohol beers with salty, fatty foods and more balanced, lower ABV beers with high acid, spicy ones—and expanding on others, such as matching sour with sour, chefs and beverage managers are now finding smart ways that these cuisines and beer pairings can coexist (and maybe even improve one another).
Korean cooking is permeated with the unmistakable likes of kimchi (lacto-fermented vegetables) and gochujang (a fermented bean paste with red chile pepper) as culinary building blocks for tanginess and spiciness. In Japanese kitchens, rice vinegar is a backbone to many marinades, dipping sauces, but isn’t as detectable an acid as one would expect. Spice doesn’t play a big role in Japanese cuisine though there is chile: shichimi togarashi, a 7-spice chile flake seasoning, used more as an on-the-table condiment than prominence, not unsimilar to yuzu kosho, chiles fermented with salt, yuzu zest and juice. While impactful, they tread lightly in Japanese recipes—a more nuanced approach to Korean’s palpable palate.
Rachel Yang, chef/owner of Joule, a Korean steakhouse in Seattle, WA. Admittedly, Yang didn’t think too much about how drinks work with food until owning a restaurant. “Koreans have their own name for chicken and beer: chimac. Chi means chicken, and mac is the first few letters of beer in Korean; beer is called macju, which literally means barley drink.” “It’s a cultural phenomena, immensely popular amongst young people,” says Yang, who had a restaurant in Portland called Revelry, which closed last year—it served spicy Korean fried chicken. The chicken and beer (usually a pale lager) combo was by far the most popular item on our menu.
When it comes to spice, one of the best-selling items at Joule is tteokbokki, Yang’s take on a staple Korean dish of chewy cylindrical rice cakes that are tossed in gochujang as part of a stir fry. To this, she adds garlicky chorizo, and fermented mustard greens, describing it as “a 4 out of 5” on the heat scale, but with some acidity. “ Beer would be better than wine with this one,” Yang says, pointing to the effervescence as a means of sort of “mentally” washing away the heat. “Physically, high alcohol accentuates spice, that’s why wine wouldn’t help.”
In Korea, lagers are #1—a clean crisp choice for all the big and bright flavors in Korean food. Yang was first approached by Fremont Brewing, a neighbor to the restaurant, to help them pair their hard-to-find dark beers and aged-reserve stock. She had to do a lot of tasting to figure out what kind of foods would go well with them. The answer: big flavors, like juicy pork dumpling (fat), kimchi (acid), szechuan peppers (heat).
At Joule, Yang has come to understand that no matter what her guests are ordering from the menu, they really just want to drink west coast IPAs, which aren’t always the most food friendly. She advocates for beers where the hop character isn’t overly assertive, as with hazy or session IPAs. “We’re not a bar, so all our drinks have to be enjoyable to supplement our menu.” Yang prefers the unfiltered mouthfeel of a hazy IPA and its smooth finish.
As a chef, the food’s flavor profiles come first. “We talk a lot about acid here, bright citrusy vinegary flavors,” says Yang. A cool cucumber salad, or even heirloom tomatoes will raise your taste buds, and a big, hoppy beer can make that unenjoyable, a battle between two opposing flavors. “Goses, saisons, sour beers are all extremely food friendly because acid works well with acid,” she says.
But often, in her cooking, dishes aren’t just high acid or just spicy, but will be a combination of the two.“Our kimchijeon (spicy and sour kimchi cheese pancake) is very spicy, but the lactic acid in the kimchi is sour. With two big flavors, you really need a bigger beer,” says Yang, suggesting more malt or higher alcohol.
Alexandra Nowell, brewmaster and director of brewing operations of Three Weavers in Inglewood, CA. As a resident diner of Los Angeles County, home to the highest Korean population in the country and highest number of Japanese residents among cities outside of Japan, Nowell has eaten her fair share of both cuisines, plus her business partner (Lynne Weaver, who’s family is from Fukuoka) is Japanese. Nowell believes their IPAs have a place at the table in both these cuisines—made for easy drinking, but also these kinds of cuisines in mind. “Our Expatriate IPA isn’t overly bitter, it lends well to fermented food and fatty meats. Hopped with El Dorado and Mosaic, you’ll get a hit of bright grapefruit, bag of weed, and Christmas trees, ending with a candied lemon tropical note from the Simcoe,” states Nowell. They’re very balanced for west coast IPAs, they don’t finish with astringency or bitterness,
“We brewed a beer for the (now shuttered) Japanese restaurant MTN, an offshoot of Gjelina. We made a rice lager with a light hopping of Citra, which gave it a mango-like character. Super flavorful, but it was restrained enough in structure, that it also complimented everything else they had on the menu from sashimi to ramen to funky fermented pickled stuff.”
Nowell says it’s beer’s low pH, that really works well with the subtleties of Japanese cuisine. ““Anything with a phenolic yeast bite, anything floral, mild citrus, works well with Japanese food,” she says.Three Weavers makes an IPA with Japanese yuzu and Buddha’s hand citrus, but Norwell thinks even that may be too citrus-forward.
In Brooklyn, where citrus isn’t as local, husband-and-wife team Aaron Israel and Sawako Okochi of the Japanese-Jewish restaurant Shalom Japan, riff on many classics from Hiroshima, where Okochi grew up. That region is known for both its okonomiyaki, savory, cabbage-filled pancakes piled with many sweet and savory toppings, and ramen, like tsukemen, a dipping-style. There’s also oysters, big ones, that are usually grilled, and served with local lemons—relying on layers of umami throughout the menu. Umami is made of glutamic acid, and needs a balanced beer that will fortify flavors rather than be a force of its own. Their mainstay beer: Rockaway ESB.
“I try not to drink that much beer when I eat ramen, I get so full,” says Okochi, ”but ramen has such fattiness, it needs another note”. Randolph Beer in Brooklyn approached the couple about making a specialty beer for these flavor bombs. And thus, Ume-Gose-Shi was born. “It’s a bit sour, and that acid through the fat well.” Originally meant to pair with their house-smoked wagyu pastrami sando (served on shokupan, Japanese milk bread, with Gulden’s mustard and dill pickle), it wasn’t a super sour gose, a little more balanced and hoppy than a full sour. “With undernotes of plum, the ume isn’t really acidic, it’s more basic, but feels the same on your tongue,” mentions Israel, but admittedly leaves the beverage pairings to Robert Sniffen, the beverage manager at Shalom Japan.
ESB, Extra Special Bitter, is an often-neglected style in the States, and funny enough, isn’t usually as bitter as an IPA—most run at about 50 IBUs. Around 5% ABV, with some malt character, a little richness, and of course, slight bitterness, the beer doesn’t take over the food. Sniffen likes pairing the Rockaway with their fall-off-the-bone Teriyaki Duck Wings, which have a bit of sweetness in the sauce; the ESB cuts through that nicely. “A little bit spicy from sriracha, the teriyaki sauce is basically a caramel, shocked with soy sauce and mirin, blended with garlic confit, and hot sauce for heat and acidity,” mentions Israel. With a lot of gently-hopped pairing options in the New York State region, Sniffen is looking forward to welcoming Grimm Ales, Threes Brewing, Captain Lawrence, and more beers from the Hudson Valley.
They also serve a very beer-friendly roasted oyster appetizer, topped with miso butter that starts you off with salt, fat and umami in a single slurp. Follow that up with a few sips, and you’ll see how you won’t miss mignonette—the acid’s already there (in the beer).
RECIPES
Kimchijeon (Spicy and Sour Kimchi Cheese Pancake)
By Rachel Yang, Joule, Seattle, WA
Tangy kimchi, spicy gochujang, melty cheese—a trifecta of tastes cohere into a spectacular singular savory pancake.
Makes two 9-inch pancakes
Active time 15 min
Total time 15 min
Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon cayenne powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 egg
¾ cup water
2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean chili paste)
1 cup kimchi, chopped
¼ cup mozzarella cheese
¼ cup cheddar cheese
2 tablespoons canola oil
Directions
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, cornstarch, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne powder, salt, and baking powder.
Add egg, water and gochujang to the dry mixture. Mix well with a whisk.
Add kimchi and mix well.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil in a 9-inch non stick pan over medium heat.
Pour half of the batter into the pan and spread well, turning the pan to coat the bottom.
Sprinkle half of the mozzarella and half of the cheddar cheese evenly over the batter.
Once the bottom has crisped up and browned (2 to 4 minutes), flip and cook the other side the same way.
Repeat with remaining batter.
Serve the pancakes hot, on their own, or with a soy-based dipping sauce.
Teriyaki Sauce
By Aaron Israel and Sawako Okochi of Shalom Japan, Brooklyn, NY
Teriyaki is a very stable sauce—a quart will last in the fridge for months.
Yields 1 pint
Ingredients
¾ cup peeled garlic cloves
Canola oil
½ cup mirin
¼ cup soy sauce
One 1-inch knob of ginger, cut into ¼ inch slices
1 cup and 2 tablespoons (250 grams) sugar
1 tablespoon and 2 teaspoons (25 grams) sriracha
Candy thermometer, optional
Heat proof or wooden spatula
Directions
To a small pot, add the garlic with enough canola oil to cover. Over low heat, bring to a very gentle simmer. Cook for 10-15 minutes, until the garlic cloves are soft enough that they can be easily smashed with a fork. Remove from heat and strain off the oil. (You won’t need it any further in this recipe, but it’s wonderful to have on hand for other uses, like for fish or tofu. Just let it cool, and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a month).
Put the garlic cloves in a blender and buzz on high speed until you have a smooth paste. Remove from the blender and set aside.
To a small pot, add the mirin, soy sauce and ginger, and bring to a boil over high heat. Once it boils, turn down to low, and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Turn off heat and let the ginger steep in the liquid for 10 minutes; then remove the ginger and discard.
To a medium sized pot (4 quarts would be ideal, but not smaller), add the sugar. Add a tablespoon of water and mix thoroughly until the sugar has the consistency of wet sand. If you have a candy thermometer, clip it to the rim of the pot and set in the sugar. Turn the heat to medium high—do not disturb the sugar. Once it starts to melt, and you see it starting to caramelize, about 3-5 minutes, give it a couple to few stirs using a heat proof spatula or wooden spoon. Let the sugar continue to caramelize, stirring infrequently, only once or twice every few minutes. If you stir it too much, you risk having it crystalize. Once the caramel reaches 350F, about 8-12 minutes—it should have a uniform, deep amber color, and just barely start to smoke, with a deep caramel aroma.
Turn off the heat, and immediately, and incredibly carefully, pour the mirin/soy liquid, very slowly into the caramel. This is the most dangerous thing you will do in a kitchen, with the molten caramel having the capacity to sputter and jump out of the pot. This is why you want an amply large pot. Do not take your eyes off the bubbling caramel and don’t allow any pets or small kids near the stove during this procedure. The caramel and mirin soy will bubble violently when they meet each other, but should settle down within 15 to 30 seconds. Let the hot caramel cool for twenty to thirty minutes in the pot.
Once the caramel has cooled slightly, whisk in the garlic confit and sriracha. Transfer to a heat proof container and store in the refrigerator, for up to two months, until you are ready to use it.
Roasted Oysters with Miso Butter
By Aaron Israel and Sawako Okochi of Shalom Japan, Brooklyn, NY
Panko breadcrumbs are added into this simple compound butter so when it melts on top of the oyster it doesn’t melt all over the place—it’s more like a crust. Use awase miso for middle of the road umami, and an oyster that’s not too salty.
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 stick (¼ pound) butter, at room temperature
2½ tablespoons awase miso
1/3 cup panko breadcrumbs
Aluminum foil
Shucking knife
12 large oysters (preferably ones with a nice deep cup)
1 lemon
Directions
In a medium bowl, combine the butter and miso and mix thoroughly. You can use a stand mixer with a paddle attachment for this step. Once mixed, fold in the panko breadcrumbs. Put in a non-reactive container and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 475F.
Set some crumpled aluminum foil on a baking tray. Shuck the oysters, and set them on the foil, so they don’t tip over. Spread about a teaspoon of butter in a nice even layer on top of the oysters. Bake in the oven for 6-8 minutes, until the miso butter is golden brown and the breadcrumbs are toasted. Alternatively, you can broil the oysters for 3-4 minutes, just take care not to burn the breadcrumbs.
Remove the oysters from the oven, and grate some lemon zest on top of each one. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze a little juice onto each one as well. Serve immediately.
In the spring of 2020, when COVID-19 cases in New York City were skyrocketing, Al Sotack— partner and self-professed “bar dork” at Jupiter Disco—received an unexpected visit. Like every other such establishment in New York, the Bushwick bar was shuttered, but that didn’t stop the staff at the nearby New York Distilling Company from swinging by to drop off their homemade hand sanitizer.
“Local communities have always been important to us, and we’ve always thought of [New York Distilling Company] as our neighbors,” Sotack says. “In this industry, there are a lot of fluffy relationships that don’t feel so real, but with those guys it’s always been that: These are good dudes making good stuff.”
As a veteran of the New York cocktail scene for the better part of a decade, Sotack has been pouring spirits from New York Distilling Co. since his days in the East Village bartending at the legendary Death & Co. He’s a fan of the whole line of liquors—including the distillery’s Ragtime Rye, which is made entirely from locally sourced ingredients—but to him, one spirit feels synonymous with the city of New York: Dorothy Parker Gin.
“In terms of a category that I don’t often love, which is American gins, theirs are a standout and ones that I love to use,” Sotack says. “It’s hard for me to describe the way that [Dorothy Parker Gin] feels, but it plays well with other ingredients. It’s important to mention that it has character—gin is an infusion, so it’s supposed to taste like juniper. Some brands try to be quieter on their bouquet, but I don’t think New York Distilling Co. does that.”
Like many bartenders, Sotack considers himself a gin person, all the more so because of a brief stint at Beefeater earlier in his career. While he tends to prefer the London Dry style that’s most common across the pond, he’ll make an exception here, both because he enjoys supporting his neighbors and because the spirit in question is something he likes to drink.
Though whiskey may be the spirit that’s most associated with American distilling, gin has always been the workhorse behind the American bar. During the dark days of Prohibition, gin was among the era’s most popular spirits, in part because its potent juniper oils could help mask the foul taste of the diluted industrial alcohol that was so prevalent. From the French 75 to the Bee’s Knees, gin was the backbone of most of the tipples that F. Scott Fitzgerald’s contemporaries and characters would have been sipping.
“Gin is a cornerstone of so many classic cocktails. If you were working in the cocktail renaissance of the early aughts, it was hard to avoid gin,” Sotack says. “Bartenders like to pour it. Even though you may not always want a mouthful of juniper—or maybe you do—you still want that taste available, because it’s such an iconic flavor in cocktails.”
Despite a history that runs deep, there is still a shortage of well-loved New York gins to be found in New York bars. That’s not a coincidence—although the state boasted hundreds of distilleries, both legal and otherwise, prior to 1920, by the time Prohibition was repealed in 1933, they were down to precisely zero. Thanks to a combination of fiendishly bureaucratic State Liquor Authority laws and distilling licenses that could cost upwards of $65,000, it stayed that way for decades. It wasn’t until 2007, when a series of overdue legislative changes dropped the rates for microdistilleries, that anyone thought to once again make gin in New York City.
UNEXPECTED BEGINNINGS
In 2011, the year that Dorothy Parker Gin and New York Distilling Co. were born, Sotack was already entrenched in that cocktail renaissance, though he hadn’t quite made it to Brooklyn yet. After following a girl to Philadelphia in 2006, he started bartending to pay the rent while trying to make it as a writer.
“I took to bartending because it was a way to make money in three days a week instead of five,” he says. There was not much in the way of a cocktail scene in Philadelphia at the time, but it turned out Sotack had a knack for slinging drinks. In 2009, he became the head bartender at The Franklin, a subterranean speakeasy tucked behind an unmarked entrance.
“The Franklin was a big deal in Philly if you cared about cocktails. I like to think that we set the standard in those years,” Sotack says. Three years later, he had a James Beard nomination to his name, as well as a nod as Eater Philadelphia’s Bartender of the Year. Yet for all of his success, the gravitational pull of nearby New York was difficult to ignore. His close friend Maks Pazuniak was manning the bar at the now-shuttered Counting Room in Williamsburg, and he kept dreaming of opening up a place of their own.
“He’d come to Philly and stay at my house and we’d go drinking,” Sotack remembers. “We’d had this in mind that we would open this bar in New York. I don’t quite remember when it went from drunk talk to real talk, but it happened.”
By the following year, when Sotack moved to take up residence behind the bar at Death & Co., New York’s cocktail scene was reaching a high-octane pitch. Darkly lit drinking dens—full nods to bygone speakeasies—were clustered around downtown. For the first time in a century, it was possible for bartenders to pour locally sourced spirits from the likes of New York Distilling Co., Kings County Distillery, and Van Brunt Stillhouse. In a moment when cocktail culture and chef culture were converging towards singularity, it only made sense for bartenders to mirror the locavorism exhibited on the tables around town.
“Dorothy Parker [Gin] is historically significant because back when it was released it was a completely unique product,” says Amanda Schuster, author of New York Cocktails: An Elegant Collection of Over 100 Recipes Inspired by the Big Apple. “Nobody had had a gin that was made in New York City. Then all of a sudden you could be in a bar and sip a cocktail made with Dorothy Parker Gin that is of a time and place.”
It didn’t hurt that the gin’s namesake was as New York as they come: a whip-smart literary satirist, screenwriter, poet, and feminist icon of the Roaring Twenties who was a staff writer at the New Yorker and a founding member of the Algonquin Round Table. Born Dorothy Rothschild, she was, like the best New Yorkers, a maverick in her time. After penning a barbed piece entitled Why I Haven’t Married, Sketches of My Seven Deadly Suitors, she went on to marry three times, all the while cramming in what feels like three lifetimes’ worth of career achievements. Through it all she was notoriously unapologetic in speaking her mind—her politics would eventually earn her a place on the Hollywood blacklist—and continued to do so until her death at 73.
“I think the name is brilliant,” Schuster says. “If you’re going to have a gin from New York City, name it after Dorothy Parker.”
‘A DAMN GOOD DRINKER’
For Allen Katz, the distiller behind the gin and a veteran of New York’s hospitality industry for roughly three decades, the name spoke to both his literary and historical obsessions. Having already named a 57% ABV, or navy-strength, gin after Matthew Calbraith Perry—a commandant of the Brooklyn Navy Yard—he wanted to christen his elderflower- and hibiscus-accented gin after another New York icon. Katz had been a fan of Parker’s since college, and had read everything she’d ever written long before New York Distilling Co. opened.
“In addition to being famous as a writer, she was a damn good drinker,” Katz says. “We’re not claiming Dorothy Parker approves of this gin, obviously, but it’s an homage to Dorothy Parker as an American, as a New Yorker, as a feminist, as a creative zeitgeist who participated in a cultural revolution in the earlier part of the 20th century.”
That tie to New York’s past was crucial for Katz. To call New York Distilling Co. nostalgic would be an oversimplification, but there’s an unmistakable sense of romance to the parallels it draws with the history of its home city. Since the distillery’s arrival marked a reversal of some of the damaging effects of Prohibition, it was inevitable that that tumultuous period would so heavily influence it.
When Katz started bartending in the East Village in the early 1990s, high-end speakeasies like Angel’s Share, the Tokyo-style bar tucked above a sushi restaurant, had yet to set up shop in the neighborhood. Back then, the Slow Food Movement that was creeping into American restaurants had yet to really penetrate its cocktail culture.
“We didn’t care what kind of rum was in the well then—we just wanted to make a decent daiquiri and have a good time,” Katz says. All that started to shift around the turn on the millennium, with the arrival of bars like Milk & Honey. “You could tell that something was happening, that there was going to be this cultural shift in attitude about distilled spirits. It felt like a community was created out of nowhere and I knew I wanted to be a part of it.”
A casual interest in better spirits quickly morphed into an obsession for Katz. Over the course of two years, he visited more than 30 distilleries, with a focus on whiskey and gin, since those formed the backbone of Prohibition–era drinking habits and cocktails. While he loved sipping whiskey out in rural Tennessee, he was especially drawn to Plymouth Distillery, a compact urban distillery in the U.K. producing historically faithful renditions of navy-strength and sloe gin. Since he had no desire to move to the countryside to open a distillery, he wondered why he couldn’t simply make spirits in the city itself.
“I’ve lived in New York for almost 30 years and I thought, this works—so I started noodling on the idea of a distillery,” Katz says. “I’m a New Yorker. I love living here, and this is where I wanted my work life to be. Very few distilleries had been licenced in New York State and none at the time had been licensed in New York City.”
Katz joined forces with Tom Potter, who had recently left Brooklyn Brewery, and Tom’s son, Bill, to start the long, bureaucratic slog to obtain the necessary permits. The trio met a certain amount of skepticism—opening any kind of business, particularly one with such sprawling spatial requirements, is a dauntingly expensive endeavor in New York. The fact that no one had done it in the better part of a century didn’t help matters. By now, however, it’s clear that the tradition of distilling and cocktail culture in New York is here to stay.
“We’ve reclaimed our taste buds,” Katz says. “We’re not drinking insipidly sweet cocktails anymore. We have an appreciation for herbal flavors, for amaro and vermouth. We’re going to hold onto that and celebrate it even more, with a great appreciation for what we have in the moment.”
THE TIPPING POINT
The lessons of history are available for anyone with the patience to hear them, and the comparisons between this precarious moment in New York to the previous century are everywhere these days. As soon as Governor Andrew Cuomo began rolling back COVID-19 restrictions, declarations of a new Roaring Twenties began. Much of this wishful hedonism centers more on a Baz Luhrmann-inspired vision of the decade than the gritty one that Parker and her peers inhabited, but it is tempting to see certain parallels. For hospitality businesses, the past year has been financially ruinous in a way that reminds of the devastation of Prohibition. Tallies of industry closings are staggering, yet still startlingly incomplete, in part because it’s all happened so quickly.
“In many cases, those places are not coming back,” Katz says. “There will be new things. But right now, I find myself looking around the neighborhood and saying, ‘Thank God this place, this personal touchstone is still here.’ I think as we come out of the pandemic and we realize what we’ve lost, it will be devastating.”
As the city lurches into this new phase, Katz is holding onto a fragile sense of optimism. At the moment, bars around New York are scrambling to hire enough workers to accommodate the sudden surge of customers. Parties are packed, clubs are open, and subway cars once again rumble into the moment when the kids coming home intersect with the commuters heading out. A sense of anxiety-tinged abandon hangs in the densely humid summer air, a certainty that the arc of history is bending once again, even if no one can yet say how.
“It feels like we’re coming out of the foxhole or the trenches and I do not say that lightly,” Katz says. “We might just blow the lid off things here. I say it softly, because damn it, I hope it happens. I really do.”
A NEW ERA
Jupiter Disco opened its doors the day after the 2016 election, when many New Yorkers found themselves in desperate need of a drink. By then, Pazuniak and Sotack had spent years and many a late night brainstorming the type of bar they wanted to make. The result was a hybrid of a dive bar, a cocktail den, and a dance club. More than anything, the duo wanted to “put the cocktails back in a place that was fun.” The interior feels like the antithesis to the hushed, reverent speakeasies often associated with modern cocktail culture. Neon bulbs cast a surreal glow over the sort of watering hole Harrison Ford’s Rick Deckard might have frequented in Blade Runner.
“We’ve always been cognizant of a certain level of historicism and a certain style of places we—I don’t want to say bring back, but aspire to,” Sotack says. “In short, we’re doing the same thing that people have been doing for a hundred years. We try to make great cocktails and do it with a big smile.”
Prior to the pandemic, glitter-spangled twentysomethings would gather in droves at Jupiter Disco to warm up for the nearby clubs or to stay the night and dance. The vibe was always a main draw, but regulars knew that the cocktails were as serious as anything in town. While the list of spirits is vast, New York Distilling Co.’s gin has its own place of honor.
“I would always put quality first. That said, Jupiter Disco as an entity has always been conscious of its place in New York City,” Sotack says. “We try to support other local businesses because we like being part of the community. When you get both in your distilling company, you get lucky, because you can support someone in your neighborhood who’s local, but you still get good juice.”
Even when New York officially reopened and bars were allowed to return at limited capacity, Sotack and Pazuniak opted to remain defiantly shut. The idea of operating at 50% capacity, with no more than 35 guests sitting at tables and quietly sipping their drinks while nibbling some hastily cobbled-together snacks, seemed antithetical to the bar’s identity.
“Jupiter Disco is made to drink fancy drinks and dance with strangers,” Sotack says. “It’s sometimes three deep at the bar and people are yelling over the sound system. It’s really the least ideal bar to be operating during a plague.”
On June 16, Sotack and Pazuniak deemed New York sufficiently vaccinated for the kind of party they like to throw. They know that it will take months, maybe years, to process all that the city has lost during the pandemic. Bar culture, be it illegal speakeasies in the ’20s or the dives of today, is the steam valve that has always allowed New York to maintain its relentless forward kinetic energy without combusting.
“I don’t think it’s overstating it to say that COVID was the most detrimental thing to happen to nightlife in our lifetime,” Sotack says. “Most bars that closed will not reopen. It’s like John Lennon—you don’t know what you got until you lose it, baby. One day people will wake up and realize that so much of New York’s culture is based in bars.”
For Schuster, New York’s cocktail scene is as much about serendipity as it is about gin or any other liquor. “I think what used to make New York so distinctive was being able to sit at a bar and have a conversation with anyone from almost anywhere—the spontaneity of those moments,” she says. That sense of possibility, of chance encounters and unexpectedly late, booze-soaked conversations was conspicuously absent for so long. Still, she’s seen the city pass through dark times before, and she has faith in the battle-hardened bartenders and owners who have managed to reach the other side.
“New York has always been about survival,” she says. In the coming months, as the city eases into the 2020s, much of that survival will come down to New Yorkers looking out for their neighbors.
Words by Diana Hubbell Illustrations by Ryan Troy Ford
I bet you know more jokes about non-alcoholic beer than you do good examples that you might enjoy imbibing. Non-Alcoholic beer has a reputation for being too sweet, too watery, or having a lingering bad aftertaste. This has been pretty typical in the US, but that is changing.
SHEDDING STIGMA
Overseas, specifically in Germany, most breweries produce an“alkoholfrei” version in their lineup, and consumers actually buy them. There is a large association with NA beer and sports in Germany, with many Olympic-level athletes replacing their‘sports drinks’ with NA beer. There was even a double-blind study(financed by a beer company, however) that noted in 2009 marathon runners given NA beer suffered less inflammation and fewer respiratory infections than those given a placebo. At most major German marathons, nonalcoholic beer is available(or even provided!) to runners at the finish line.
Between 2011-2016, though overall beer drinking declined in Germany, Euromonitor International data showed consumption of non-alcoholic beer went up 43%. With new(undisclosed) brewing techniques helping to improve flavor and diversity of brews available(there are over 400 NA beers on the market in Germany), Germans drink more NA beer than any nation, except Iran. The innovation and growth of the NA beer market in Germany shows it can work in other markets. Consumers are slowly changing their minds about NA beer. Over 25% of consumers in Poland, Spain, Italy, France, and Germany agree that NA beer can taste just as good as full-strength beer.
NON-ALCOHOLIC CRAFT BEER
Enter brands like Stratford, Connecticut’s Athletic Brewing. Started in 2018 by Bill Shufelt, it only brews alcohol-free craft beer. They have a Stout, IPA, and a Golden Ale in their current lineup. Currently they are the only brewery in the US east of the Mississippi River specializing in non-alcoholic beer, but not the only one in the US. Bravus Brewing Co. and Surreal Brewing Co. in California and WellBeing Brewing Co. in Missouri are also making craft NA brews.
Historically, NA beers are made in one of two ways: brewers stop fermentation or they boil the alcohol off. Athletic Brewing isn’t saying exactly how they remove the alcohol from their beer. They did say it is not by burning off the alcohol, and it involves“small tweaks to every step of the process.” Bravus said of their process,“We found a specialized strain of yeast that doesn’t produce a lot of alcohol. We worked with a molecular biologist to keep the fermentation slow and low(heat). It’s almost like cooking sous vide. We don’t distill our beer or run it through a filter.” WellBeing Brewing says they produce their brews by putting fully-brewed and finished craft beer into a vacuum and lowering the boiling point to remove the alcohol, while“maintaining the body, aroma, mouthfeel, crispness, and flavor.” Similar to Athletic, Surreal doesn’t disclose their NA brewing methods.
“There’s an incredible world of craft beer out there with all sorts of variety and options, but the way the world is trending with people being healthy and active, or wanting a clear head for any number of reasons, there’s really nothing out there for(people who want) social drinks that are healthy and made from high-quality ingredients.” Shufelt said.
NA beer is growing, partly because consumers want it too. Americans are drinking less, citing family, religious or medical reasons, and recovery. Almost 84% of global drinkers say they’re trying to reduce or moderate their alcohol consumption. The craft beer industry is making changes to be more inclusive of this group. With the new brewing technologies and a wave of NA focused craft brewers making great beer without the alcohol, the options are greater than ever for you to knock- back a beer even when you’re not drinking.
#BeerRunDay is for stocking up on local favorites for a Fourth of July gathering. It’s also for enjoyment right at the brewery, surrounded by friends and family. The most sublime beer runs involve both scenarios: sipping at the brewery and then leaving with arms full of fresh craft beer for later.
“For small and independent breweries, the Fourth of July period is like Black Friday,” says Bart Watson, chief economist for the Brewers Association. “It’s easily one of the biggest beer holidays for to-go sales, and is a huge driver of on-premise sales as well.”
No surprise there. Craft beer is a natural complement to picnics, barbecues, family reunions, cookouts, and camping trips. When it comes to essential shopping-list items for Independence Day, independent beer is right up there with charcoal briquettes, sparklers, and sunscreen.
(ATHENS, GA) – Following its seventh anniversary, Creature Comforts Brewing Co. announced it has earned official B Corporation (B Corp) certification…
read post
The post Creature Comforts…
[[ This is a content summary only. Visit my website for full links, other content, and more! ]]